Aideepen 1200W 20A DC Converter Boost Car Step-up Power Supply Module Adjustable Voltage Converter 8-60V to 12-83V

Works perfect for my need, boosting voltage from 12.3 to 14.5 and holds it right on the number when loaded. I'm not loading but about 8 amps that's only at start up after that to 2.5 continuous.

Be aware that max output power is based on the voltage input. This is noted in the product description. Fuses on boost step up supply are 15A fuses. I'm using it to boost 12.5v to 48V for POE injection for a network. Has a low battery cut off, which is nice for battery fed applications. Min voltage is 10Vdc, which is still OK for 12.5 batteries. Found more detailed directions for set up on line...vendor should provide that with the product. It arrived with zero instructions.

Just be sure to power up the unit FIRST, then turn on the load. I'm using one to get the 19 volts I needed to power a Beelink SER6 mini PC I use with portable ham radio. It's been perfect. This unit is overkill, for sure. But for the price, who cares? 😊

using this to charge a 60V ebike battery from a 12V automotive source. i tried the 1500w and the 900w drok and this is the only device that worked for me. recharges battery at 3A max (user adjustable) until 67.2V limit (user adjustable) is reached, then holds voltage at 67.2V as current declines. i will probably add a quiet 50mm fan since the heatsink was approaching 130f at 70f ambient under this load. the unit has a 2-pin fan connector and holes tapped in the heatsink to allow for fan installation.

I figured I got a bad one. The second one came no were near rated specs. The trim pots are very difficult to get a reading. Once you get a reading and you then move to slow movements to fine tune settings never hold. So I wasted two purchases for paper weights. I don’t want to keep returns of products poorly created to Amazon because I have gone through several products of cheaply made products from the same place. Don’t want a rep of constant returns so I eat it.

holy crap its still working special note on this. Do not have under a full load while turning input on (input current can spike to 100 amps and the main mosfet blows out) Avoid setting low voltage protection below 11.2 volts (see line above) Just because the low voltage protection light is on does not mean it is not working at all but just at a lower rate (less heat) Be sure to use both input connections for + and - at a high current output like 10 amp or more (one can result in input post melt down) At max current output keep an eye on your input wires and make sure they dont melt down from 40+ amps of current (yes 40+) If you want to keep this working at a max constant current replace the heat sink with something 2x the boards size a 200mm x80mm x40mm would do the trick and use a fan youll need it. I bought 2 of these from ebay and had a problem from day 1 with them and had to replace the main mosfet 3 times in both of them after the 3rd time they blew for no good reason i scrapped them and bought this one but those 2 did teach me a lot on some dont do's. I use this on low sun days for solar energy charging my Lithium battery packs low sun days do not produce enough voltage to get the packs charged so gotta use something and this works just fine as long as they are kept cool (below 70C) and not under a load when i turn on the input and have the low voltage setting no less than 11.2 volts. The Default heat sink is most certainly not enough the main mosfet and the other mosfets produce to much heat at a constant high current (around 22amps) and conducts the heat to the board heating every single component that is on the board so try to keep it under 70C to avoid any hiccups and small component fails. Thats be best advise i can give for these. Update 11-11-18 BLOWN yep not working anymore these things are totally NOT RELIABLE im so fed up with having to repair these things I put a shottky diode on the output to prevent it from getting reverse current from being hooked up to a battery to charge them so far its been stable but at a loss of 3 amps charging current reducing it to 17 amp max constant.

I am using this product to solar charge an e-bike battery. The solar panel puts out 20-22 volts at 5 amps and I set the DC converter for 53 volts. I use a "Crystal Lite" drink mix container to slide this converter in and since the container is clear - I can see the small LEDs on the DC converter. This also beats the "made for" box cost. The heat sink fins stay on the outside. This DC converter can handle more power than what my portable solar panel can give but, to just wheel out somewhere and set up a charger - this does fit in a backpack.

The electrolytic capacitors on the output side are severely dented. So, badly that I am worried about turning it on anyways. It seems to me these dents are NOT from shipping it as the packaging material does not show signs of abuse. These were damaged before they were shipped! I will replace the capacitors because I am in a rush to deploy it. Follow up: They sent me a new unit that was in a better shape. The supply worked as advertised. Thank you for the good service.

Super merci !

Works perfectly for my project. Building a Bluetooth speaker which the amp requires 36 volts to function at its peak, I'm using an 18 volt Milwaukee battery. Currently at its testing stage with great results.

Using this with a 12.5V 175 watt Xbox power supply to charge a 20AH 12.8V lifepo4 battery. I set it to charge at 14.4V 10A and have done two full charges so far while watching an ammeter get to 0 before turning off. I'm also planning on using this in my vehicle instead of using the Xbox power supply(my vehicle doesn't always put out 14.5V). I followed instructions and advice of other reviews to set the current to zero and adjusting up after you start charging. As others mentioned it does get hot so a fan is probably necessary. Unsure of the longevity but hope it keeps kicking, it will mainly be used with/in a diy battery box for camping.

Very usable For me personally, I consider that

I feel like Mr. ElectroBOOM reading some of these reviews. Many of them amount to "I abused an inexpensive device that I don't understand, and I broke it". So I bought one to try out and it's doing exactly what it's supposed to. This is a very ordinary, TL494-based boost converter. It's not magic, and it's not garbage either. If you need to do something like boost sagging DC voltage, squeeze some performance from a solar panel at minimal cost, charge odd batteries at moderate power levels... you will probably find this converter a better value than building your own. Edit: This does have a fatal weakness though - surge currents and soft starting. C7 on pin 4 (DTC) is used to slowly increase the duty cycle on startup. But C7 is only 1uF which makes for a 10ms startup. If you start it under load and high boost it will deliver full current before any protection mechanisms kick in - boom goes the main MOSFET. This could also happen under short circuit and the MOSFET will blow way faster than the silly automotive fuses provided as "short circuit protection". What is really disappointing is the reverse voltage protection MOSFET could be used to protect against surge currents as well, but wasn't used for this. Otherwise the only legitimate concerns with this unit are: - DOA due to cold solder joints or shipping damage. Give it a good inspection and burn-in before trusting it with anything mission-critical, just like any module you buy online. - Cheap potentiometers. Yes, they're cheap but so is the unit. Replace them with a pair of precision resistors if you want precision. - Ripple. Terrible if underloaded. This is a 20A unit and when running <1A it is barely idling. It's not built for low current use. - Cooling. You need to add a fan to run at the design power. No temperature sensing so it will happily melt itself. Honestly, a bigger heatsink or a thermoblock would be a good idea if you are going to run it at 20A for long periods of time. You could also twin the MOSFET to drop the RDS and gain efficiency. Now on to what it is and what it isn't from someone who does this stuff for a living. - Let's start with "1200W 20A converter". That means the MOSFET can handle 20A. This unit can handle 1200W at its peak power point. Very specific conditions. Those conditions are 60V, 20A INPUT! If you are boosting from <60V, and expect it to handle 1200W, you don't understand switching converters. If you're feeding it 40A, it's going to get hot. You're running at twice the rated current! - "It can't regulate voltage and current at the same time". Of course it can't! The laws of physics don't allow it. V=IR which means the two settings are MAX voltage and MAX current. When you hit the current limit, the output voltage derates to limit the current, just like every CC/CV supply ever built. - "It has shorted turns on the inductor" - It's clearly wound "3 in hand" which means they used 3 thin wires instead of one big stiff one. Think of them like strands in a cable. There is nothing wrong with them being shorted. - "It's isolated and I don't like it" Oh please, I wish it was isolated. If it was isolated at this price they wouldn't be able to keep a single one in stock. Do you see two sets of turns on the inductor? Nope. - "Make sure you add an output diode" You mean the diode that's an inherent part of every switching supply? Check under the board... there's a big, fast diode under there. - "It doesn't shut down fully on LVP, it passes the supply voltage" There's that pesky diode again. The switcher shuts down, and the supply passes through to the output. Unless you wanted to pay for another 20A MOSFET, double the heat dissipation and take an efficiency hit as well. - "I powered it up with the output shorted and the MOSFET popped..." Do you mean "I hated this converter and wanted it to die"? Ok, I'm done here.